{"id":7156,"date":"2014-03-24T22:42:22","date_gmt":"2014-03-24T09:42:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/philcook.net\/beerdiary\/?p=7156"},"modified":"2015-01-17T18:29:56","modified_gmt":"2015-01-17T05:29:56","slug":"stones-city-tap-takeover","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/philcook.net\/beerdiary\/2014\/03\/24\/stones-city-tap-takeover\/","title":{"rendered":"Stone’s ‘City Tap Takeover’"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Stone<\/a>
Stone ‘w00tstout’ \u2014 a collaboration with Drew Curtis and Wil Wheaton, and therefore mandatory<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Late-breaking news that beers from Stone<\/a>, a legendary but rather isolationist Californian brewery, would be available “legitimately” in this part of the world was greeted with some surprise by local beer geeks. Stone have never exported to New Zealand (nor even to all parts of their own country) and Greg Koch, co-founder and figurehead of the brewery, is famously opposed to “grey market” imports<\/a> and goes out of his way<\/a> to encourage that the consumption of beer be “fresh-and-as intended, or not at all”. And indeed, plenty of the incredulous reaction was vindicated; in the end, it transpired that an announcement of impending\u00a0distribution<\/em><\/a> was a tragic (and strange) miscommunication<\/a>. But what we Wellingtonians did<\/em> get \u2014 and what Melburnians soon\u00a0will<\/em> get<\/a> \u2014 turned out to be a super-sized, double-venue’d, fairly-freakin’-serious tap takeover.\u00a0There was a subtle lingering awkwardness in that the night’s hosts \u2014 Malthouse<\/a>, and its younger brewpub sibling, Fork & Brewer<\/a> \u2014 have always dealt in the kinds of mainstream offerings\u00a0and<\/em>\u00a0parallel-imported beers<\/a>1<\/sup><\/a> that Greg so righteously rails against, but still. The result was a shining\u00a0example of How To Pub:<\/a>2<\/sup><\/a> the beers I had were only uniform in their excellence, and the mood in both bars was wonderful to partake in.<\/p>\n

One of few real criticisms of the night was that each venue’s beer lists weren’t published anywhere and you had to fall back to scouring Untappd \/ Twitter \/ Whatever for clues, if ping-ponging between bars seven hundred metres apart\u00a0seemed inconvenient. But just before leaving work, I spotted (somewhere online) that Stone’s new sessionable ‘Go To’ IPA was on at the F&B, so I headed there first. I did technically already own, waiting for me at Malthouse, a glass of the ‘w00tstout’ Stone brewed in collaboration with\u00a0Drew Curtis (of\u00a0Fark.com<\/a>)\u00a0and Wil Wheaton (of, well,\u00a0Plenty Of Awesome Things<\/a>) having stopped by the bar earlier keen-bordering-on-paranoid not to miss out on it but equally conscious of its over-ten-percent punch and the work I had left to be done \u2014 including driving a delivery van. In any case,\u00a0starting<\/em> with an Imperial Stout doesn’t often bode well, so thankfully the unexpected prospect of a midstrength hoppy pale was enticing enough to distract me.<\/p>\n

\"Stone<\/a>
Stone’s relatively-new ‘Go To’ IPA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After an alarmingly-shaky start a few years ago (in both the brew~\u00a0and<\/em>\u00a0~pub departments), the Fork does seem to be finding its feet. Co-hosting events like this \u2014 and doing so rather well \u2014 can only help to demonstrate that. Meanwhile,\u00a0‘Go To’ was delicious and exactly what I felt like: a properly thirst-smacking lush golden body with a massive hop aroma hurtling up the nose to shock a fading brain back into alertness \u2014 and also to cut through the worty wafts of a brewpub in mid-brew. The Americans in general have a reputation for their superboozy beers (lacking a ramping-up excise tax regime to discourage them), so it was gratifying to see a sub-five-percenter go against the trend \u2014 and then to spy another (the ‘Levitation’: a maltier, smoother and calmer affair, utterly perfect for pint #2) and to have that, too. I then wound up helping a friend work his way through a flight of tasting glasses, having sips of four much-madder beers \u2014 white wine barrel-aged ‘Cali-Belgique’; Matt’s Burning Rosids,<\/a>3<\/sup><\/a> brewed in honour of an employee<\/a> killed in an accident at the brewery; Perfect Crime; and Vertical Epic 11.11.11<\/a>4<\/sup><\/a> \u2014 which were all well put-together, diverse, interesting, storied, and at least a few leagues North of merely “good”; great fuel for sipping and rambling.<\/p>\n

But my w00tstout kept calling from down the road, and didn’t disappoint once I retrieved it. I think I spent a full hour with it, a massive thing of madness and deliciousness with plenty going on \u2014 the collision of two of my own particular kinds of geekiness in such a lovely beer made for an utterly sublime experience. A few more tasters from the relatively-bonkers end of the spectrum followed \u2014 a white-wine barrel aged saison called ‘The Tiger Cub’; and the\u00a0red wine<\/em> barrel-aged version of the ‘Cali-Belgique’ I’d previously tried \u2014 which both just went nicely with\u00a0more<\/em> sipping and rambling with regulars and colleagues from my Malthouse days. I switched back to having pints of the saner stuff, afterwards, and found the everyday Pale Ale and IPA both to be buckets of fun and just as worthy as the weirder ones, in their own ways. The bar was in absolutely fine form, and despite the critical eye that a former staff member would naturally have, it probably still hasn’t been equalled when it really gets a run-up and goes in for full-noise beer events.<\/p>\n

\"Stone<\/a>
Stone Takeover taps<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Stone<\/a>
Stone Takeover taps<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The beers were all good. They were stupidly and consistently good, forming a range of genuinely impressive scope with properly skillful execution. But one of the surprising lessons learned from having a cross-section of such legendary things in front of me was that we’re doing pretty damn well, here. It’s one thing to leap at the chance to try them, to let yourself be blown away by them, and to drift blissfully through a fair few glasses \u2014 but don’t despair that they’re not more-readily available down here. Even with only a token factoring-in of scope and history, the local (and here I mean “Australasian”) breweries are easily pulling their weight.<\/a>5<\/sup><\/a> Damn right I’ll be visiting Stone whenever I find myself even vaguely in California’s orbit, but as these beers were running out one by one last week, I wasn’t mourning; I’m not even close to done learning about the things within reach to worry very much. ‘Go To’ was great \u2014 but so are Liberty’s ‘C!tra Junior’\u00a0and Panhead ‘Quickchange’, just for example; I could go on.<\/p>\n

\"'Fizzy<\/a>
“Just what I feel like right now” is \u2014 I relatively-humbly submit \u2014 another good ending for a sentence that starts with “‘Fizzy yellow beer is…”<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Close to midnight, I went in search of a suitable nightcap, and found it in the form of Stone’s 2010 Imperial Stout; a giant velvet exclamation point to end a lovely evening. Epic Brewing’s Luke Nicholas<\/a>6<\/sup><\/a> was commandeering the sound system (for better or \u2014 occasionally \u2014 worse), as he does, and Greg Koch jumped up on the bar for some old-timey-style evangelism<\/a>, which was kind of adorable and awesome but also put me back in mind of a few misgivings. I’m\u00a0all for<\/em> broadening peoples’ notions of what beer can be, but there’s an uneasy inconsistency in Stone’s off-and-on-again absolutism about some things: Greg’s fanatical anti-grey-market stance is awkward standing in front of a fridge featuring more than a few such bottles, and preaching about the unenlightened “on this very street” is a little strange in a bar that will happily \u2014 and rightly \u2014 sell them a faux-import Heineken\u00a0right now<\/em>. The event\u00a0could’ve<\/em> been staged in collaboration with (if not\u00a0at<\/em>, for reasons of scale) Hashigo Zake, for example, if moral purity was a paramount concern. And against all that reaching-out rhetoric, something like “Fizzy Yellow Beer Is For Wussies” clashes horribly. Not least because of the simple fact that several of the Stone beers on offer that evening were objectively-speaking both a) fizzy and b) yellow \u2014 nor the even-better point that, with everything in its right place<\/a>, even the simplest, blandest, most-unfashionable and “mediocre” beer can be just the thing for the moment<\/a>. The real problem here is a simple breach of the Ethics of Comedy: the Fizzy Yellow Beer line makes fun of the mainstream\u00a0drinker<\/em>, not the often-duplicitous producer, and amounts to the sin of “punching down”<\/a>. If we’re going to be evangelising \u2014 and please, let’s \u2014 we’d be better off not trying to snark and smile at the same people simultaneously. Beers as good as these actually do very well at speaking for themselves, anyway.<\/p>\n

\"Diary<\/a>
Diary III entry 11 part 1: City Tap Takeover<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Diary<\/a>
Diary III entry 11 part 2: City Tap Takeover (cont.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Original notes:<\/strong><\/a>7<\/sup><\/a> City Tap Takeover 13\/3\/14 @ F&B, to start. 1) ‘Go To’ IPA 4.5% just as Colin, Luke + Greg arrived. The place is jumping \u2014 but very<\/span> worty as Lester is still going. Fucking delicious, hugely hoppy, golden + fabulous. Massive, uppy, but not angry. Gorgeous. Nice to see this place crammed with happy \u2014 if starstruck \u2014 nerds. 2) ‘Levitation’ 4.4% Another session beer spied, and therefore ordered. Really nice comparison; vastly maliter, less hoppy, less spiky + fizzy in presentation. Glassphemy, too, in a Coopers glass \u2014 sure sign of a busy bar. Loads of good people + good vibes. (Helping with Kit’s tasters: Cali-Belgique (White Wine) 8.8% Matt’s Burning Rosids 10.5%, Perfect Crime 6.8%, and Vertical Epic 11.11.11 9.4% Just shows a great breadth. 1) is like unpuckering Funkonnay, says Kit, and he’s on to something. 2) is like a jasmine bonfire, serious but lovely. 3) more forgettable after just a sip, but you quickly get that in a crowd. 4) Holy hell, #freshisnotbest. Big explosion, despite its age. Spicy, which might help it on that front.) 3) @ Malthouse, now. W00tstout! @wilw’s beer, among others. I bought one at 2pm, out of sheer FOMO. Which wasn’t necessary in the end, but totally worth it. The only plausible case for insurance, really. So good. Tonnes of smooth, boozy flavour. Pecans evident but not obnoxious. Just sublime. It took over an hour, and it was marvellous. Then two little tasters: The Tiger Club (White Wine) 8.9% and Cali-Belgique (Red Wine) 8.8% \u2014 And, fuck it, a pint of the flagship Pale 5.8% Everyone’s having a grand time. The staff are in their element, and the bar is \u2014 as it always did \u2014 kicking arse in Beer Event mode. The a Stone IPA because why not. Greg’s on the bar, and Luke’s on the sound system. It’s vintage Malthouse, and it’s bliss. And then, while I was looking for a nightcap, a sour-face-inducing Gueze came out, for the VIPs, I guess. 6) Imperial Stout 2010. There we go. That’ll do.<\/p>\n

\"Greg<\/a>
Greg Koch and me, just barely \u2014 I was taking photos in the bar when he borrowed my camera for an impromptu selfie, with the settings evidently\u00a0way<\/em> out of whack for such a thing<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\n

<\/a>1:<\/strong> And rightly so<\/em> I hasten to add, for reasons that flow from their physical locations, market niche, and from the fundamentally-usually-rather-overblown nature of the anti-grey panic<\/a> in the first place. The scare-quotes are very firmly only “legitimately” in this post’s first sentence because, despite Greg’s fevered use of words like “illegal black market” (see the footnotes of the above-linked entry), the sale of his beer here has always been legal under NZ law whether he likes it or not \u2014 and whatever the valid concerns there might be with the practice. (Also, to pre-emptively split hairs, I’m not certain<\/em> that the F&B stocks \/ stocked grey beer, but they definitely trade in mass-market stuff.)\u00a0\u2191<\/a><\/span>
\n<\/a>2:<\/strong> Without meaning to imply that there’s only One Way, of course; I just had a surpassingly wonderful very quiet-and-civilised night at Golding’s, drinking plural Panhead beers, eating delicious pizza, and watching the Cosmos re-make.\u00a0\u2191<\/a><\/span>
\n<\/a>3:<\/strong> It turns out that the Rosids<\/a> are a group of flowering plants, including \u2014 no surprise, in context, once you learn the first half of this sentence \u2014 our friend the hop.\u00a0\u2191<\/a><\/span>
\n<\/a>4:<\/strong> One of those joyful-and-t00-rare moments when the Americans’ maximally-stupid middle-endian month-first date notation won’t<\/em> drive me mad.\u00a0\u2191<\/a><\/span>
\n<\/a>5:<\/strong> I’m fairly sure it was Luke Robertson<\/a> who nudged me into keeping this in mind, but I can’t remember if he did so on the Twitters, his blog, or in his podcast. I recommend you follow all three.\u00a0\u2191<\/a><\/span>
\n<\/a>6:<\/strong> Who must’ve been a contributing cause to this event happening in these places, friend and collaborator of the manager \u2014 and fellow oddball hophead to Greg Koch \u2014 as he is.\u00a0\u2191<\/a><\/span>
\n<\/a>7:<\/strong> I’m on to my third actual Beer Diary<\/em><\/a>, but the power cord for the scanner has fritzed out, so I’m having to make do with somewhat-difficult-to-stage photos, for now.\u00a0\u2191<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Late-breaking news that beers from Stone, a legendary but rather isolationist Californian brewery, would be available “legitimately” in this part of the world was greeted with some surprise by local beer geeks. Stone have never exported to New Zealand (nor even to all parts of their own country) and Greg Koch, co-founder and figurehead of … Continue reading Stone’s ‘City Tap Takeover’<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[3],"tags":[26,6,20,12,11,62],"class_list":["post-7156","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-diary","tag-belgian","tag-pages","tag-united-states","tag-pale-ale","tag-stout","tag-tasted-march-2014"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":1021,"url":"https:\/\/philcook.net\/beerdiary\/2010\/11\/01\/west-coast-brewing-pale-ale\/","url_meta":{"origin":7156,"position":0},"title":"West Coast Brewing Pale Ale","author":"Phil","date":"November 1, 2010","format":false,"excerpt":"My friends and I became very fond of the West Coast beers when we stopped for a night in the tiny town of Blackball, and had more than a few at the \u2018Hilton\u2019. Their lager and dark are certainly nothing socks-knocking in craft beer terms, but they're well made, tasty,\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Actual Diary entries"","block_context":{"text":"Actual Diary entries","link":"https:\/\/philcook.net\/beerdiary\/category\/diary\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"West Coast Pale Ale","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/philcook.net\/beerdiary\/wp-content\/uploads\/West-Coast-Pale-Ale-225x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":539,"url":"https:\/\/philcook.net\/beerdiary\/2008\/11\/01\/founders-generation-ale\/","url_meta":{"origin":7156,"position":1},"title":"Founders ‘Generation Ale’","author":"Phil","date":"November 1, 2008","format":false,"excerpt":"Verbatim: Founders Generation Ale. An all-organic brewery, and organic farming\/whatever is something about which I could not give a toss. So: no points on for that, from me. But: indifference also means no points off. Provided the beer is good. And the beer is good. 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Afterthoughts, October 2010: Not just a 'pale ale', historical-me; a wet-hopped pale ale. Which is a great\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Actual Diary entries"","block_context":{"text":"Actual Diary entries","link":"https:\/\/philcook.net\/beerdiary\/category\/diary\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Mac's 'Brewjolais' 2008","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/philcook.net\/beerdiary\/wp-content\/uploads\/Macs-Brewjolais-2008-225x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":303,"url":"https:\/\/philcook.net\/beerdiary\/2007\/12\/10\/orkney-dark-island\/","url_meta":{"origin":7156,"position":4},"title":"Orkney ‘Dark Island’","author":"Phil","date":"December 10, 2007","format":false,"excerpt":"Verbatim: Orkney Brewery Dark Island. 10\/12\/07, $6ish, 4.6%, 500ml. Watching House. Very black, but the bubbles don't hang around. Smells of the usual dark ale stuff, but quite light. Feels almost foamy, aerated. All this isn't negative, it's just less full-on than expected. 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